HANDBOOK 



ON 



DRESS 0* CLOAK CUTTING, 



BY 



CHAS. HECKLINGER. 












1884. 









NEW YORK : 

PETER DE BAUN, PRINTER, IOI AND 1 03 FULTON STREET. 






Entered according to an Act of Congress in the 
year iS84, by 

Charles Hecklinger, 
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washing- 
ton, D. C. 



PREFACE. 




HE following pages contain the author's Improved System of Dress and Cloak 
Cutting, fully explained, with the intention of helping those students who, 
desirous to follow this branch of industry, are met on the very threshold by a 
difficulty — the choice of a suitable System. 

The System given has been found to give the greatest security in its 
results, with the least trouble, it being easy to learn, readily used, and gives the 
greatest satisfaction to the large number of those using it. Everything in illustrating 
and explaining has been omitted which might tend to complicate or retard the student in 
acquiring it. Every point needed to make it clear has been carefully put down — in its 
illustrations, in the simple description, and in grouping the separate articles in their cor- 
rect places — making it at once easy to comprehend and perfect as a whole. 




PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM. 




OST Systems of proportion, thus far issued, are projected on the 
breast-measure. It will be evident, on investigating the proportions 
of the human figure, that a System based only on one size of the body, and 
that its width, can never lead to the best results. 

When the height and width are equal it is immaterial which we use. 
But this is only the case on normal sizes, from 34 to 38 breast, as all devia- 
tions from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights to the 
widths. 

The problem to be solved in using a proportionate system is to arrange 
the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use it for the 
heights. 

In practice we find that the average forms, measuring from 34 to 38 
breast, require and can be cut by the full breast-measure, as the lengths 
agree, in the majority of cases, with this size ; but in larger and smaller sizes this breast- 
measure will either be too small or too large, therefore, in drafting any other sizes than 
those indicated, we must use the quantities as given in the following Table, as set opposite 
the full breast-measure, in order that the pattern in its length may be of correct size, and 
neither too small or too large. 

Table of Sizes. 



Breast. 


Size to Draft 

One-Half 

Breast-Measure. 


Waist. 


Breast. 


Size to Draft 

One-Half 

Breast-Measure. 


Waist. 


30 


15-J- 


22 


41 


201 


28 


31 


m 


001 

2 


42 


20f 


29 


32 


16* 


23 


43 


21-4- 


30 


33 


16| 


m 


44 


01 5 


31* 


34 


17* 


24 


45 


21 


33 


35 


in 


-H 


46 


211 


34i 


36 


18 


25 


47 


22J- 


36 


37 


is> 


25£ 


48 


003. 


37| 


38 


19 


26 


49 


23 


38* 


39 


19* 


26i 


50 


23i 


39 


40 


20 


27 









PROPORTIONATE SYSTEM. 



In considering the human body it must be allowed that sufficient and marked 
characteristics exist between a young girl and the full-grown woman — the slender, and 
the large, fleshy form. All these tend to establish that the first elements of a good System 
for constructing garments is a good proportionate standard. 

In strict accordance with this we have given diagrams, illustrating the system by 
which the art of cutting is thoroughly attained ; we also give the system as it should be 
used in drafting by measure. 




Table of Sizes for Children. 



Age. 


Breast. 


Waist. 


Length of Back 
to Natural Waist 


2 


22 


22 


9 


3 


903 

-- 4 


221 


H 


4 


2:1.1 


22 1 

2 


10 


5 


sh 


22f 


10| 


6 


25 


23 


11 


7 


25f 


231 


111 


8 


26 i 


23^ 


12 


9 


0*71 
-"1 


9,33 

J,, 4 


121 


10 


28 


24 


13 


11 


28f 


241 


13 i 


12 


2<H 


2 H 


14 


1 3 


•301 


24f 


iH 


14 


31 


25 


15 


15 


32 


25 


IB* 




. •■s? s r ; B-;5*>; ; -- -s 



Ft?.* 




THE MEASURES. 




HE measures required are few, and only such as give correct results (See Fig. 1). 
Have a tape which fastens around the waist in such a manner that it will be level. 
Measure from socket bone at top of back, point O, to waist I below the tape to B, for 
the highest part of hip, and to the full length of garment wanted. 

Take next the width of back from E to D, being careful to see whether the dress worn 



THE WAIST PATTERN. 



has this width in the correct place. Should it be either too narrow or too wide modify 
your measure as seems right. 

Take the measure around the arm-hole ; then move the arm forward to allow you to 
put the tape directly under the arm to seam of sleeve at F, and measure down to bottom 
of tape at J. 

Next, put the tape under the arm, close up, and measure the length of the sleeve 
down to the wrist. 

Turn to Fig. 2, and measure, as shown, from back of neck, point O, past the front of 
arm, to bottom of tape at J. This measure must be taken easy, and should run straight 
down in front of arm. 

Measure next from front of arm to centre of back. To take this measure, a little 
square, having a tape attached, is very handy to use. 

Take the breast-measure over the fullest part of the bosom and shoulder blades, 
then the waist-measure, always taken close, and the hip-measure. 

These are all the measures required for a dress-waist, a jacket, or a long garment. 
For a skirt we take the length on the side, from the hip down to the floor. For a circu- 
lar take the width around the shoulders. 

FIG. 3 AND 4. THE WAIST PATTERN. 

Commence by drawing line O on the edge of a sheet of paper from point O to F, and 
one line C at right angles with it from O to N. 

From O go down three-fourths of an inch for the actual top of back. 

From O to C is one-quarter of the breast-measure, which for a 36 bust would be 
9 inches, and from C over to 16 draw line D (see Fig. 4) at right angles with the back line. 

Next, measure from f, or the top of back down to F, the length of back, from socket 
bone to the natural waist and from F draw a line over to the front at T. 

From F go in 1 -},- inch, and draw a line for the centre of the back, from f at top to 1£ 
at the bottom. 

From O over on the top line, place 2 inches to the point marked £. This will be 
about right for all medium sizes. For large sizes, over 40 breast, make it 2\ to 2-i inches 
and for sizes under 30 breast-measure let it be l.V to V] inches. It will make no difference 
in the fit what this width may be, as it only affects the appearance of the shoulder-seam. 
A little practice, however, will enable any one to apply the right width. 

In the middle, between O and E (see Fig. 4), fix point B, and in the centre, between 
B and E, locate point C, and draw lines B and G from both points. 

Starting at E, measure over to S one-third of the breast, which is 6 inches for a 36 ; 
and add to it one inch, which fixes S ; and from S to H place one-fourth, or 4^ inches. 
All fractions and divisions that we use in explanation are based on the breast-measure, and 
are found already divided on the square. 

At S and H draw lines up, as shown. Where lines S-J and B-J cross, begin by 
drawing another to the top, at A. 



THE WAIST PATTERN. 



Now, curve from f to A, and from A to G, which last point is one-half inch above J. 
Commencing at G curve past J to R, going a trifle inside of straight line, then from R past 
X to V. 

From R draw a straight line to 1^, and curve the back seam from R by going only a 
little inside of straight line at 19, thence to 2. Point 2 is 1J,- inches from centre 1^. 

From 2 to 1 place 1 inch, then curve the side-body from 19 to 1. 

Next, measure from the centre of the back at Z, on the line under the arm, to get the 
point D in front. This should be one-half of the breast-measure (18). Point D being 




placed, draw a line from there up and down to N and to U, at right angles with the line 
under the arm. 

To form the neck we take one-sixth of the breast and place it from N to P, and, using 
N as a pivot, sweep from P to 15. One-quarter inch inside of front line at 15 we start 
to draw the curved front line to the bottom, by going outside of D one-half inch and com- 
ing back to straight line again, near U. 

One and a half inches below the waist-line, at U, draw a line from T over to 12. 

From P to B draw a straight line ; then take the length of the back shoulder, from A 
to G, and place the same from P towards 17, and where this reaches is point 17. 

Having located 17, curve from it above the line of shoulder at 21, and drop one-fourth 
inch below it at 20 ; and, also, from 20 draw the arm-hole past 18 to X ; but do not quite 
touch A, and drop below V one-fourth inch. 



10 THE WAIST, BY MEASURE. 



Point V is midway between S and H ; from it draw a straight line to 4; curve a little 
on both sides of it ; that is, starting from V, keep following the line for two inches, then 
gradually separate towards the waist-line, so that you will have two curves, which will be 
apart one-fourth inch near waist, but coming together again at 4. 

About one-half inch more forward than the middle, between 19 and V, fix point X ; 
and in the centre, between 1 and 4, locate 3 ; then draw a line from X to 3 and curve it. 

In the middle, between H and D, mark point 12, and in the middle, between 12 and 
H, point 13. 

Measure the distance from front, at U, to 1, and from 2 to 1-J ; on this draft it will be 
16 inches. Now deduct from this the size of waist, 12 inches, and the remainder, 4 inches, 
must be taken out in darts. We put them in as follows : From U to 5 place a distance 
of 2 inches for all average medium sizes ; from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches, and between 
the darts, from 6 to 7, is three-fourths inch, then from 7 to 8 is another dart of 2 inches. 

Take two-thirds of the distance under the arm and place it upwards from 7 towards 13 
for the height of the back dart, and let the front one start one-half inch lower ; then draw 
them, as shown, from 22 and 23 to 9, 10, 11 and 12. 

Now, at one-fourth inch below 1, curve the lower line past 3, and a trifle above it, to 
12, drop point 12 a little below the line; also drop 10 a little below it; from 9 to T re- 
main on the line straight across. 

The draft is now finished by proportion, and we can assure our readers that, with the 
use of the sizes on our Proportionate Table, it is applicable to all forms, the manner of 
drafting remaining the same in all cases. 

All our fioures. unless otherwise stated, are drafted without seams. We do this be- 
cause it is far easier to add the amount necessary on different material than to draft it on 
the pattern. 

THE WAIST, BY MEASURE. 

The measures we shall use are the following: Breast, 36 ; waist, 24 ; length of natural 
waist, 15; height under arm, 7; front of arm, 10-^ ; width of back, 6-| ; front length, 18V. 

In drafting this we drop proportion altogether and use only the measures as stated 
above to get all points on the draft. All the lines and curves will come out in similar 
manner to the previous draft. Fig. 4 starts by drawing a line O-F and O-N ; go down 
from O three-fourths of an inch, and in from O, to A, two inches, arid curve from -|- to A. 

From |- down, measure the length of back 15 inches to F, and at F draw a line over to 
the front and go in 1-i- inches and mark a point. 

From f to this last point draw a straight line for the centre of the back. 

Up from F measure the height under arm 7 inches to E, and from E draw a line to 
the front. 

From Z to D is one-half of the breast-measure, and draw the front line up and down. 
Also measure from Z to S, the actual width of the. back, and from Z to H.the front of the 
arm, 10-i- inches, or the blade measure which is taken from the front of the arm over the 
blade to the centre of the back. At S and H draw lines up. 



THE WAIST, BY MEASURE. 



11 



In the middle between O and E mark point B, and in the middle between B and E 
point C, and draw the lines across as shown. (See Fig. 4.) 

From where the lines cross at J, draw one across to top of back at A, and curve from 
A to G which point is one-half inch above J. 

Beginning at G curve arm-hole past J, a trifle inside of line between J and R, and from 
thence to V. This last is midway between S and H. 

Make the bottom of the back 1^ inches wide. This is only a medium, as it can be made 




1 inch or 2 inches, which only places the seam' either further back or more to the front. 
Then from R draw a straight line to 1^ and slightly curve a line drawn to 19 and to 2. 
Between 19 and 2 curve more towards centre of back. A few trials will enable you to make 
a nice shaped curve. 

From 2 on back to side body at 1 is 1 inch, and curve from 19 to 1. 

From V, straight down, draw a line to 4 and curve a trifle on either side of it, also 
separate side-body from X to 3. Point X is midway between line R and V and the dis- 
tance between 3 and 4 is about ^ inch more than X to V. 



12 



THE WAIST, BY MEASURE. 



Take i of the breast, equal to 3 inches, and place it from point N to P and use point N 
as a pivot and sweep from P to 15. 

At a point on waist-line directly under H, measure up past P, shoulder point, the front 
length, which is in our measure 18A, deducting the width of top of back, and wherever it 
reaches to is point P. This may, sometimes, when the person is erect, reach above the 
line; and again, on hollow or stooping shoulders, be below it. Wherever it reaches is the 
shoulder point, and when it goes above we sweep at a point above N even with shoulder 
for neck, and of course, should it be below the line, at a point below N, so that the neck 
will keep its shape to harmonize with the height of shoulder point. 

Wherever point P is located by measure, above or below, or on the line, start to draw 
the line to B, on back, for height of shoulder, and place the width of back shoulder from A 
to G on this line from P to get point 17. Then from 17 curve above it about one-quarter 
inch to P, and also draw the arm-hole, going inside of line H, but never over one-half inch, 
to V, as shown on the diagram. Drop a trifle from 17 to 20. 

At the front, draw the line starting inside of straight line of 15 one-quarter of an inch, 
gradually curving out till at D we have one-half inch curve, and thence going in again to 
the line at waist, point U. From U go down 1\ inch to T, and draw a line across to 12. 

Measure the distance F to U, leaving out the opening between 1 and 2, which in this 
case will be 16 inches. Now, one-half of waist-measure, 12 inches, from 16 leaves 4 inches, 
which must be taken out in darts. 

To produce the darts in the right place we proceed as follows : first locate a point in the 
middle between H and D which gives 12, and in the centre between- H and 12, another 
which is marked 13. 

From U to 5 place 2 inches, as we never wish to have the first dart any nearer to the 

front, then from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches or one-half of 
the amount to be taken out. Between the darts leave 
three-fourths inch, and then place another dart of 2 inches 
from 7 to 8. In the centre of each dart mark a point and 
draw lines from these to 12 and 13. 

One-third of the height under arm from 13 locates 23 
while 22 is one-half inch lower, and starting from each of 
the last points curve the darts as shown. 

It will be seen that they are drawn very pointed at top, 
and that below the waist-line they run straight down with- 
out any spring being given. 

From 1 curve to 3 and 4 ; but between 3 and 4 it runs 
a trifle above waist-line, and then from 4 to 12 on lower 
line. Point 10 is a little lower than the line, while it rests 
on line, from 9 to T. 

This finishes the draft by measure, and we have only to 
add that this, as well as the preceding, requires the adding 
of seams according to material used. 




LARGE SIZE WAIST. 



13 



FIG. 5. LARGE SIZE WAIST. 

In using this by measure, draft in the same way as explained in another article, the 
difference being only that the measure will be larger. We will explain this by the Propor- 
tionate Method: Breast, 44 inches; waist, 3U ; drafting size, 21|, or equal to a breast- 
measure of 43^ inches. 

It should be understood that this last size of breast is used only for the height, while 
the original breast-measure must always be used for the width. 

First draw line O-C, mark point O, and draw a line at right angles with O-C, to A; 



F 





^^^^ 






.Sir 


r 


7N^ 
1 r 9 




fir" 


1 
1 



o 



Fig. 5. 



1/6 



\H 



n 



■* 



& 



/* to /2 



J7 



M 



> 



'£ jC 



from O go down three-fourths inch to point 7, the top of back. From 7 to C is the length 
of the waist, 15^ or 16 inches. 

At the waist go in 1^ inch from C ; draw a straight line from 7 to \\ for the centre of 

the back. 

From O go down to point B, one-quarter of the drafting size, which is, in this case, 
10-! inches ; this is one-quarter of 43-J-, as on large sizes the length is reduced in the 
shoulders to the drafting size. Now draw a line from B to H, and one from C to J. 

Point D is in the centre between O and B ; then from D draw a line over to K. 

From B to G is one-third and 1 inch, equal to %\ inches, and from G draw a line up. 

From G to E is one-fourth, equal to 5+^ inches ; here also draw a line up. 

From N, on the back line, to H, place one-half of the full breast-measure, which is 



14 LARGE SIZE WAIST. 



22 inches; and at this point draw a line up and down, thus making the front line A-J. 

From O to 6 is one-eighth of breast, 2-| inches. From 7 curve to 6, for the top of back, 
at neck; from K to 6 draw a line, and at 6 begin to curve the line for shoulder, raising it 
one-half inch above K to 8. Also commence to curve the arm-hole from 8, going inside of 
line one-eighth inch at 16, and thence past 15 and 4 to E. 

Midway between K and G is point 16. Start to make the seam for the back from 16, 
past 17 to 1 ; the last point is H inch from H. When it is desired to produce a narrow 
shoulder, raise the seam above 8 one-half inch, and back from 8 fully 1 inch, and draw the 
arm-hole from 18 to 16. 

To draw the first side-body, place 1 inch from 1 to 2, and curve the line from 16 to 17 ; 
thence separate and curve nicely to 2. 

In the centre, between G and E, mark point 4, and draw a line straight down, which 
will be 5 ; and, in the middle, between 17 and 4, fix point 15. Also take the distance from 2 
to 5, and fix a point in the centre, which will be 3, and then draw a line from 15 to 3 ; curve 
a little on each, side of these two lines, as shown. 

In producing the front, be very careful to follow the instructions as here given : From 
A to F is one-sixth of the breast-measure, 3.V inches ; and the same amount from A to I ; 
now, sweep from F to I, using A as pivot; from F to D draw a straight line, and place the 
same distance, as on the back shoulder from to 8, on to F to !», and then curve it a little 
above the line at 20; finish the arm-hole by curving it from 19 downwards past E. It will 
be seen that it runs over and in front of line E, and one-fourth inch below breast-line at 4. 

For the front edge, commence one-fourth inch inside of straight line at I, and go 
gradually out to one-half inch at H, and in again until it touches line at J and 14. 

Now to manage to fix the darts: Measure from li to 1-2, to 3, and 3 to J ; this will 
give lUi- inches. But as the measure is only 1 5 J, one-half of 31i, we take out the difference 
between these two widths in darts. This amounts to 2 J inches, which we take out in two 
darts of 1|- inch each. 

First find the centre between H and E, which fixes point R ; and the centre, also, be- 
tween R and E, which gives point P. This first dart commences 2J inches from J. Then 
put in one dart of 1 1 inch. Between the darts, let the space be 1 inch, and then place the 
width of the other dart, which is also 1^ inch, and fix a centre in each dart. 

From R draw a line through the centre of the first dart, and from P one through the 
centre of the second; then curve the lines of both darts like those on the diagram. The 
darts are started two-thirds of the distance up under the arm, but the front one is made 
one-half inch shorter. 

From J go down 1 ?,- inch and draw a line across to 10. 

The bottom of the waist is straight from 14 to 13. At 12 begin one-fourth inch below 
and draw to the line at 11. From 10, also one-fourth inch below, draw a curved line to 5, 
raising to 3, and back to 2. 

When the back has been narrowed on the shoulders it becomes necessary, also, to 
conform the front to it ; as we have raised above 8 to 18 one-half inch, therefore, we 



LOW NECK DRESS WAIST. 



15 



must reduce the shoulder on the front the same amount we added, and it will bring it to 19. 
Then the waist is finished. Let it again be stated that seams must be added, except in 
the neck and arm-hole. 



FIG. 6. LOW NECK DRESS WAIST. 

It will be seen that the general arrangement of this draft is the same as all produced 
by this System. 

The pointed basque-like shape at bottom is made to whatever length desired, only, it 
will be noticed, they are made short on the side just over the hips. 






In making these waists low in the neck, the first point to be considered is that they 
reach down lower on the shoulders, and, therefore, we have to draft them so as to meet 
this requirement. 

From S.the original shaped draft, we go out to 10, on line D-10, 1 to H inch, accord- 
ing to the lowness of opening ; the same is added from O to R, and the arm-hole drafted 
from these two last points. 

Now, decide how low it should be open, and draw the curved lines from T to Q, and 



16 



BASQUE PATTERN. 



from B to 9. The strap on shoulder can be made 1 or 2 inches wide. If a short sleeve 
is wanted flatten the sleeve-head about the same amount as was added to the shoulder 
over S to 10. 

FIG. 7. BASQUE PATTERN. 

This figure represents a short pointed basque as it can be produced by this System — 
whether by proportion or by measure. We have already fully explained the manner of 



2>///e C ' . 




producing all the upper portions of the draft in previous articles, and it is not necessary to 
go over it here again, it being the same as any other waist. 

From the waist down we place whatever length is wanted in the back to get point J, 



BASQUE PATTERN. 



17 



or line B. From 1 and 1-J lines are drawn down, 
and whatever is put on from S to back line must 
be also added from line at 30 to 28. 

On a short basque the back line does not 
touch point J, it having less spring, and therefore 
the width of back, at S, is only a little more than 
at the waist, or about one-half inch on each side 
of the straight lines. 

From J to 28 curve up, to taste. If wanted 
with a high curve at side, over the hips, it may 
reach above 28 ; and when desired straight around 
the bottom draw it along bottom line, or similar 
to a jacket, as shown on other Figures. 

The side-body at bottom must start at S, 
level with 28, rising up towards R. 

O is even with R, and from it to O draw the 
line a little lower. 

Point P is also level with O ; thence, forward, 
it is drawn so that the front point is either level 
with the back or longer pointed, as shown on the 
Figure, where it is two inches lower. 

The darts are placed the same as on a waist. 
But below the waist line F they curve, as shown. 
The best way to produce a good result is to draw 
straight lines down from 11, 12, 13 and 14, draw- 
ing them inside or outside of these lines, as shown. 
It will thus be seen that 23 comes nearly in the 
centre of the second dart, because more curve is 
here needed for the hips, while the space between 
the darts is drawn so that the distance between 21 
and 25 is only a little more than at 12 to 13. In 
this way, when the darts are sewn up they will 
take the shape, or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece between the darts. 

When dividing the side-body, from 18 to 19, directly under the arm draw a straight line 
down and let the spring on each side of this line be equal, as P and O. Also take out 
about one-fourth inch above the waist-line along the side-body seams, to curve them more 
to the shape. 

From 15 to 20 a straight line is also drawn, and an equal amount is put each side of 
this line, over the hips, to R and O. 

It will be noticed that point 18 is in the middle, between line E and the line K, 
or point S on Fig. 4; and point 15 is midway between 18 and line K ; the width of the 
side-body, at the waist, is made wider ; the line from 18 is always drawn straight down, 




POLONAISE. SLEEVE. 



19 



then divide the distance from point 19 and 2, the centre of which is 20; and from 15 
through 20 draw the other line. 

FIG. 8. POLONAISE. 

This is drafted in the same manner as the one given in Fig. 7. As, however, this is a 
long garment the amount of drapery must be increased; therefore below the hip line D we 
spring out till at bottom, point F, it amounts to one inch. At 4 there is one inch over line ; 
at 6, on side-body, one inch ; there draw a straight line from 4 down, through this inch, and 
curve the one-half inch over it. On the side, from 5 to 7, is 1-J- inches, the same at bottom. 

Where 3 and X, of fore-part, are located lay the side-body on top of it, 1 resting on 3, 
and point 3, of side-body, resting on X, then finish the line from X to 14, by the way the 
side-body lays, and fix the length also by the side-body. Put in two darts, letting them 
run only 4 inches below the hip line. 



FIGS. 9 AND 10. THE SLEEVE. 

Commence by drawing lines O-E and O-F. 
Use the arm-hole size to produce the sleeve, and go 
down from O to B one-fourth of this ; A is in the 
middle between O and B. Draw lines across. 

From O to F is one-half of arm-hole, and from 
there draw a line down to K. 

From B to F draw a straight line and halve it, 
which will be point H ; and from this last also draw 
a short line at right angles with the diagonal line 
from H to J. 

Measure the length of line B-F and take one- 
third of it and place it from H to J. 

Now, using J as pivot, sweep from line at top, 
point 4, around to the front and the back ; from B 
curve line past 5 to this sweep. Where the sweep 
crosses line at G draw a line down to K. 

Go down from B to C three-fourths of an inch, 
and from here measure the length of arm to E. 

Mark a point midway between B and E, which 
gives D, and draw a line across. 

In the middle, between the two parallel lines at 
back, mark a point f. 

Now lay the square in such a position on the 
pattern that 5 inches will touch point E and the long 
arm will touch/, then draw along the bottom, from 
E to N, and to/. 





V M- 




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20 



SLEEVE. 



Begin to curve from C, past L to f, and curve 
to N. 

Go in from D 1 J- inch and draw the front-seam of 
the sleeve. 

From X, where the curve strikes line B, begin to 
draw the under-sleeve parallel with upper part 6 to 1. 

Measure from B around the sleeve-head to C, and 
apply number of inches obtained to X, and measure 
past I towards 3, the measure of arm-hole, and 2 inches 
more. If the upper-sleeve measures 11 inches place 11 
on to X and measure 16 inches, adding 2 inches more to 
line at 3 for a 16-sleeve. Wherever point 3 is located 
begin to draw back arm-seam to bottom by running 
straight down, curving- out to 2, or as much inside of 
line 7 as f is outside of it. 

FIG. 10. 

Draw the line O-G and O-F. From O to C go 
down one-third, less one-half inch, and draw line over 
to K. In the middle, between C and O, draw also a 

line from B to H. 

From O to G is one- 
half of arm-hole size, and 
draw a line from G down- 
wards. 





u li#(npillWW|l|i 



From C begin to curve the sleeve-top past I to H, touch- 
ing the top line at I. From L to E apply the length of 
sleeve. Make F 1 \ inches lower down than E. 

From E to N is an average of 5 inches. Draw a line 
from H past K to M and N, curving it inside of K about 
one-half inch and curve the line only a tritle below the 
elbow. Go in from D 1 \ inch, and draw the inside seam 
from C to E. 

This finishes the upper-sleeve. For the under-sleeve 
draw from C, curving under straight line to L, thence to J. 
Point J is 1 inch inside of H. From J draw down to within 
one-half inch of M and to N. 

The front-seam is the same as the upper-sleeve from C 
to E and N. 

In drawing any sleeve use the measure of the arm-hole, 
and bear in mind that this manner of drafting; has the seams 
already included. 



SKIRTS. 



21 



FIG. 11. SKIRTS. 

Cutting and making a dress skirt, of any style and kind, is sometimes considered of 
very little importance. By many dressmakers the work is entrusted to inexperienced 
hands and blocked out by a pattern which will not fit the form. Many fine costumes lack 
style because the laws of cutting skirts for the different figures have not been observed. 

The fashion for the present, and for some time past, requires the skirt to be fitted with 
as much care as any other part of the dress. All fullness must be so arranged as to fall 

a- 




into the back breadths of the train. The sloping of the bottom must be proportionate, so 
as to eive a straight even effect across the front and sides and allow the train to suddenly 
spring out at the lower part of the back widths. 

The careful sloping of the gores at the sides causes the train to fall into a fan-like 
sweep. The necessity of fine •slopes, and a difference of those in different costumes, as 
well as for different figures, will be readily appreciated when we observe the use for which 
the dress is intended. 



2 '2 SKIRTS. 



In a walking dress, as it should be to be in harmony with style and the present 
demands' of fashion, the skirts should adhere closely all around the front and sides, leaving 
whatever fullness there may be at the back. In order to gain this, darts are required 
between the breadths, which reduce the size needed over the hips down to the size at waist. 
As the hips proportionately increase at a given ratio at the sides it must be evident that, 
in order that the skirt may fall down fairly over the hips, these darts at side must be 
larger there, while towards the front they must be smaller. 

The bottom should have a regular sweep. This sweep can be gained the easiest by 
laying the gores in a closing position on the table, drawing a straight line along the centre 
of the front and extending upwards about the same length as the skirt. At the centre of 
the back breadth another line is drawn far enough up to cross the first line. In this shape 
the two lines would represent a cone ; at the point attach a string to a pin driven into the 
table, and extending this string to the lower length of the skirt sweep around the bottom — 
this will produce a correct effect in every case. 

The front width is now cut wide enough so that only one additional width is needed 
at each side. As we have already said, much depends upon goring the sides as regards 
fittincr the hips, but on stout ladies extra care must be taken that the front be also sufficient 
to cover the round form of the body. The defect liable to occur in this point has the same 
result as not sloping enough at the side for large hips, namely, the skirt will hitch-up on 
the waist-band. 

Putting on a skirt to the band is of equal importance. A dart in the apron or front 
width gives sufficient fullness over the round of the body in front; so also do darts at side. 
All the rest of the fullness should be pleated or gathered into the few inches left of the 
band after the front and sides have been sewed to the band. 

We should not advise any one to cut out a skirt, whether short or with train, with 
out a good pattern, unless they understand how to draft one and know the points of 
the different shapes in gores. 

Such skirt patterns we are prepared to forward to any address, on application, but in 
order that students may acquire an idea of how to cut them, Fig. 11 will show the general 
form and shape of them. 

Draw line A, and make it -45 inches long, and mark off all the distances on the line, as 
shown by the number of inches given at all these points ; draw lines across at right angles 
to line A. 

Draw a line from point 6 to 12 and curve it to within one-half inch of 6, and then 
curve slightly one-half inch below line at centre to 6-| on line A. This finishes top of front 
breadth; connect 12 and 45, which finishes the bottom. 

Finish the top of side-breadth by drawing lines from 7 to 11, curving these lines 
like Figure ; at the bottom, curve from 12 to 42. 

Connect points 32 and 42, also 22 and 12, by straight lines, which finishes the back 
part ; this will give a skirt 38 inches long and the prevailing width. 

Lay the front part, line A, on the fold of the goods. 

In sewing to the band the front and side-breadths are left plain while the back is 
pleated in three or four large pleats. 



SACK JACKET. 



23 



FIGS. 12, 13, 14. SACK JACKET. 

It will be seen that every shape and style of garment must be drafted in the same 
manner as the principle employed in the construction of the waist-body or basque. 
We first commence to draw the back line B and O to F (Fig. 12). 

ZrneC. 1 —0 





3~~ '/- 



From O down, on the first line, place three-fourths of an inch, and from O over to F, 
one-eighth of the breast-measure, or simply 2 inches, on average size. 

Starting at -3-, measure down to C, the length of natural waist, and to D, the full parts 
of the hips; also to E the length wanted. 



24 SACK JACKET. 



From C up to B place the height under the arm. Now at every one of these points 
draw lines across, all at right angles with the first line. 

Go in from C to N 1-J- inch, and then draw a line from |, at top, to N, and from the 
last point to E, and curve the back-line, as shown from f, past R. 

From N to M make the width of back, at waist, 2 inches or more, as desired. 

Starting at R, place the width of back to G and draw a line up to S. 

In the middle, between O and B, fix point A, and from there draw a line over to J. 

From the point where lines A-J and G-S cross draw a line to F. 

Raise above J one-half inch to S and curve the shoulder from F to S ; then from S 
go inside of line at J and curve the arm-hole of the back to I. This last point is midway 
between J and G. 

From I draw a line to N, then commence at I and draw line for the side-seam to 8, 
going inside of straight line a trifle and thence with a decided curve to M. 

Draw a right-angle line with the waist-line F down to 3 from N, and to 4 from 2 ; 

Now whatever the distance E is drawn from 3 must be placed from 4 to 5, and the 
back may be finished by drawing the line from 2 to 5. 

In case it is desired to make a narrow back, point E may be nearer to 3 ; in such case 
point 5 would also be nearer to 4. 

Cut the back out, and in order to draw the side-body lay it on the papsr in such a 
manner that there will be room enough to cut it out without piecing. 

THE SIDE-BODY.— FIG. 13. 

Lines D-F and O are extended over. From 2 to 10 is 1 inch in every case. 

Draw from I, along the back, to 8, and from thence begin to separate from the back 
and curve to 10 and down to 6, which is the point on the back where line O and the line 
from 2 downwards cross. From 6 down give this line a nice curve, not springing out too 
much nor making it too fiat — a medium is what is desired. 

From B to K is one-fourth of the breast-measure. 

Curve from I to H and K. 

About 1 inch inside of K draw a line down to L, which should make the side-body 
as wide from 8 to H as 10 to L. 

At right angles with waist-line draw one down from 10 to 3. and another from L to 4. 

Now whatever the distance is from 3 to 5 should be placed from 4 to 6, and then the 
seam from L is drawn past 11 to 6. 

Make the length at bottom one-half inch longer at 5 to ; also notice that the distance 
from 7 to 11 may be a little more than that from 9 to 6, as more ease over the hip, at side, 
is desirable. 

THE FRONT.— FIG. 14. 

All the lines are extended over on the paper, and the side-body and back are laid in 
the position as when they were drafted, and as shown. 

First measure from B to V, one-half the breast-measure, and draw line A up and down. 



SACK JACKET. 



L'O 



From B to R is the measure to the front of the arm, where a line is drawn up. From 
P back, place one-sixth of the breast to N, here draw a line up and down, as shown. 

Measure up from star on side, marked Z, to line at N, the front length less the width 

S ^—P 




of the top of back, and where this reaches on the line fix the height. 

From this height draw a line to A, which gives the height of shoulder. 

From P as pivot sweep from N to 21 for neck. Place the length of back shoulder from 

F to S on to N, on line N, and where it reaches will be point 22. 

r 
\ 



26 



DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET. 



Drop one-half inch below line and curve from 22 to 23, which is one-fourth above the 
line, to N. Also curve arm-hole from 22 through R to H. 

Draw the front line one-half inch inside at 21, curving outside one-half inch near V, 
coining back to line at U, and outside one-half inch at bottom to point 20. 

From H, through L, draw line to 11. 

Whatever the distance from 11 to 24 is place over from 11 to 13 and then curve from 
L, through 12, to 13. Sweep the bottom from 13 by a point 1 inch back of N and flatten 
this curve near 14. 

Midway between R and V fix point 2, and midway between 2 and R point 1. 

Measure the distance from the front at U to 10 and from 2 to C. 

Deduct the half size of waist from this last and the remainder is taken out in darts. 

From U to 12 is 2 inches. 

From 12 to 9 is one-half of what is to be taken out in darts. 

From to 8 is always three-fourths of an inch. 

From 8 to 7 is another dart. 

Fix a point in the centre of the darts and draw a straight line from 1 and 2 to 6 and 5 ; 
and at right angles with waist-line draw lines from centre of dart down to the bottom. 
Now, one-third of the height under arm, down, fix point 3, and make 4 one-half inch more. 

Draw the darts from 3 and 4 through the points, as shown, to 15 and 14. 

FIG. 15. DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET. 



Draft by measure — breast, 36 ; waist, 24 ; and hip, 40. Length to 
waist 14-^, and full length, 26. 

By using these measures we will endeavor to show how to draft 
a jacket, each piece separately, thus doing away with the over-lap- 
ping of patterns as it occurs when it is drafted altogether, as in our 
previous articles on proportionate cutting. It is the same principle, 
but more practical, as a pattern can thus be cut whole in the skirt. 

Commence by drawing the back construction line from O to L 
and O to P. 

From O down is three-fourths inch to T. 
From O to E is one-fourth of breast — 9 inches. 
From T measure down to the waist 14 ^ inches, and the full 
plength to L, 26 inches, and from O over on top line to 5 two inches, 
and curve the top, T, to 5. 
B is midway between O and E. 

K is 6 inches below the waist ; now draw all the lines across. 

At F go in 1^ inch to back, and draw a curved line from the centre seam of the back, 
from T to H, and spring out three-fourths inch at 9, thence to L. 

From E to 7 is one-third and one inch, equal to 7 inches. Draw a line up from 7 to 
3, and one from 5 to 3. 




DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET. 



27 



Raise above 3 one-half inch to 4, then curve the shoulder-seam of the back ; form also 
the curved line from -4 to 6. 

Point 6 is midway between 3 and 7. Make the width of the back at waist 2 inches, 
and from 2 draw a straight line down to the bottom. 

Now curve the side seam from 6 past 2 to 10 at bottom, which point is three-fourths 
of an inch outside of the straight line, also connect L and 10 by a line. 




THE SIDE-BODY. 
Cut out the back and lay it on the paper in such a manner that the breast-line will lay 
on the same line further towards the front, so that there will be sufficient room at the 



28 



DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK JACKET. 



./"'?*'- 



bottom to draft out the side-body whole. Now, first draw along the edge of the back from 
6 to 2 ; go in at 2 one inch, and curve from the blade down to 13. 

At 13 draw a straight line down, and curve out from 13 to 18 ; this last will be exactly 
underneath point 8 of the back, and from here to the bottom draw it with a slight curve 
to 20, which is the same length as point 10 of the back. 

From 14 to 13 is 2 inches, and make the distance from 11 to 12 the same; now draw 
a straight line from 12 to 11, and down to the bottom. 

Go out from 15 to 10 one inch, and curve seam from 11 to 10, which should not be 
over 1-i- inch outside of straight line. Draw line from 20 to 19. 

THE FRONT. 

Lay the side-body on breast-line and back in position against side-body, so that the 
breast-line of each lays correct and straight, then measure from I on centre of the back to 

the centre of the front D, half-breast, or 18 inches; 
at this last point draw a line up and down for front 
line. 

Point 12 of the side-body will now be the same as 
point 21 of the front; draw down to 27 a line with a 
slight curve to shape in at waist ; also draw a straight 
line down from 27 to 35 at bottom. 

From P to C is one-sixth, or 3 inches, and the 
same to 23, now sweep the neck from P. 

From C, which is one-halt inch above the top line 
for erect or ordinary builds, on the line draw one to B 
on the back. 

Now measure the length of shoulder on the back 
from 5 to -4, and place the same from C to 22, and 
curve a little above it, as shown in Fig. 15. From G 
on side-body forward to front of arm is one-fourth, or 
4^- inches, where a line is drawn from H ; then finish 
arm-hole from 22 to H and 21. 

Finish the side-seam by going out at 31 1 inch to 
33, and curve seam to 34 ; also locate the length by 
laying the side-body, point 12, on 21, and where 19 
comes is 34. 

From C, by 34, sweep the bottom of front and 
straighten this some in the centre. 

At the centre of breast-line, beyond D, put one-half 
of breast, and curve the front line from 23 to waist at 
S, where it comes back to the straight line, and thence 
to the bottom at 30, where it is one-half inch outside of 
it. For a double-breasted jacket make the lap 2.V inches 




SACK JACKET. 



29 



at breast, 2 at waist, and 2£ at bottom. Whatever the size of the draft at waist, from 
points S to 1J,- on back, exceeds the actual measure must be taken out in darts. 

In this Figure we take out one dart only, starting in the centre, J, which is between H 
and D, and take out between points 25 and 26, the full amount which will be about 2^ 
or 3 inches, starting the dart at 24, two-thirds above 25, and finishing about 4 inches 
below the hip-line. 

In case two darts are preferred they are put in as already shown in previous Figures. 



FIG. 16. SACK JACKET. 

This shows the manner of drafting a jacket with 
an extra piece under the arm and only one dart in the 
front. The correctness of the lines, and the simplicity 
of the process, will be of much benefit to our students. 
This method is the same as we have given in several 
different styles, and therefore it is drafted in a similar 
manner. It requires only one method to draft all 
kinds of garments, and our aim in giving the different 
shapes is to familiarize our readers with its application 
to a variety of shapes and styles, so that whatever gar- 
ment they may be called to cut they will be able 
to do it. 

Let us take a size — 36 breast, 24 waist, with a 
length of 30 inches, and a waist reaching down from 
neck 15.V inches. 

In drafting, first draw the line O-F. 

From O go down three-fourths inch for the top of 
the back. 

From the top of the back to D is the length to the 
waist, 1 5 i inches; from the same point down to the 
bottom of the garment measure 30 inches to F. 

At D go in to point 14 l-l- inch. Then from the top 
of the back to 14 draw a straight line, and also draw 
one from 14 to F, curve slightly over the line below 
14, past 20, to F. Make the width from 14 to 2 two 
inches, and run a line parallel with backdine from 
2 to 29, and curve it a trifle, as shown on the Figure. 

From O go down to C one-quarter of the breast, 
which is 9 inches, and draw a line across. Draw a line 
from O over to K at right angles with the back-line. 

In the middle, between O and C, fix a point marked B and draw a line over to N. 
From C to G is one-third breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches, and draw a line at right 




30 SACK JACKET. 



angles with line C-G. From G to H is one-fourth breast, equal to \\ inches, there draw 
a line at right angles with the one under arm. 

From 1, centre of back, to J, at the front of the breast, place one-half of the breast- 
measure, equal to 18 inches, and at J draw a right angle line up and down like line K-J 
and S. From O to 13 is 2 inches. 

From N to 13 draw a line, and then, commencing at 13, curve the shoulder, letting it 
rise above the last line one-half inch to 14. 

Starting three-fourths inch inside of line G begin to curve the arm-hole past 12 to 
17 and H. In the middle, between N and G, fix the point to start seams from for the 
back. Draw line from thence past 19 to 2 and 29 — this makes the back with narrow shoulders. 

To draw the first side-body place from 2 to 3 one inch, curve the line from 19 to 3, 
gradually beginning to separate below 19 without curving too much, care being taken to 
get a neat curve. Below 3 curve toward the back till at hip, 21, it will meet the back, and 
thence downwards, till at the bottom it will over-lap the back 1 inch to 30. 

Make the width of side-body at the top any distance desired, say 3 inches, and make 
it the same at waist, or from 3 to 4, 3 inches. Then curve from 17 to 4. 

Lay a long straight-edge, closing at 17, and three-fourths inch from point 4; while in 
this position mark a line along it from the hip-line downward, and connect it by a curve 
from 4 to 24. 

Go in from 4 to 5 a distance of three-fourths inch, and curve from 17 to 5, but be 
careful to commence to separate side-body only \\ inch below 17. Lay a straight-edge, as 
before, at 17, and three-fourths inch from 5, so that it will lay towards front, then from hip 
downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from 5 to meet this at hip, 23. 

From 17 to 18 may be only \\ or 2 inches, according to the size— 2 inches will be 
sufficient for a 36 breast. 

Draw a straight line to 6 and take out a slight curve to shape it to the form. Again, 
lay a straight-edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 6, and mark along it from the 
hips downward; curve from 6 to hip. 

Commencing at 18, curve the front to 7, taking out one-half inch, then lay a straight- 
edge against 18, and three-fourths inch from 7 mark along it below the hips and finish the 
curve from 7 to 25. 

To produce the front, place from K to P one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, also the 
same from K to 16. From P to B draw a line, then place the same distance as on the 
back shoulder from 13 to 24 on to P to produce point 15, or the length of front shoulder, 
curve it above this line, and at 15 drop it one-half inch below. At 15 curve the arm-hole 
to H, going outside of the line enough to give the arm hole a good shape, but under no 
consideration go beyond point H — rather go inside. 

Curve the front-line one-fourth inch inside of 16, and outside at J one-half inch, and 
coming back to R, where it should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at S. 

Add beyond last curve 1 inch for the lap, on a single-breasted jacket, all the way down. 

Measure from 14 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6, and 7 to R, which will be about 15 inches; but as 
the waist must be 12 inches, or one-half of 24, we must take out the difference in a dart, 



SACK JACKET. 



31 



which is 3 inches. Divide the space between H and J which gives point I, and from this 
draw a straight line down. Go down from I 2 inches to 17. On each side of the line at 9 
place one-half of the dart, 1| inch, then curve from 17 to 8, 27 and 35 ; also from the same 
point to 10, 28 and 36. At the bottom it should be three-fourths inch. 




The bottom of the first side-body must be one-half inch longer than the back ; the 
second the same length as the first ; and the front must start at the same length as the 
second, and curve forward 1 inch below line 33 to 37. 



32 



SHORT JACKET. 



FIG. 17. SHORT JACKET. 

This gives a short jacket, of a neat, peculiar shape. As regards the darts all points 
are the same as given in Fig. 18, except that instead of putting in two side-bodies we only 




cut a dart out under the arm, and one across the front, both being equal, of a size required 
to make the waist lay close. The dart in front is started from H and runs into the pocket. 
The back is made 4 inches wide at the waist and wide enough at the bottom to 
harmonize with it. Point F is the hip. Any sleeve cut to the size of arm-hole will go 
with this. 



JERSEY BLOUSE. 



33 



FIG. 18. JERSEY BLOUSE. 

Draw line O-J and O-F. From O to D is one-fourth of breast. From O to 20 is 
three-fourths inch. From O to D take one-half the distance to get poin-t B, and in the 
centre, between B and D, is point C. From 20 to E is length of back and to F the full length. 




J 6 



Go in from E 1-i- inch and draw the back-line from 20 to 17, and to F. From O is 
2 inches for top of back to 2. From D is one-third of breast and 1 inch to G. Draw a line 
up from G to 6. From 6 draw one to 2 and curve 1 inch above it at 1. 

Curve arm-hole from 1 through 9 to 10. From G to H is one-fourth of breast — 
■\\ inches on a 36 breast. Draw a line up. From back, near D, to K is one-half of breast. 



;:i 



GIRLS SACK. 



Draw line up and down. From J back to I is one-sixth of breast, and the same down to 3. 

From I to 6 draw a line, Curve above line at 18 one-half inch for front shoulder, 
and curve the arm-hole from 18 to 17, and H to 10, Point 10 is about 1- L inch from G. 

Make the width of back 53, inches from l. 1 ,, and ',M, inches to point 10, and 10 inches 
at bottom. Then curve the side-seam at 10 to 5 J, and U. From N, at front of the waist, 
go in 3 inches, to 16 4.', inches, and to 4 6 inches. 

Draw a straight line up and down through 16, and form the dart, from 20, through 
3 and 4, to 5 and 6. 

Lay the back on the front to meet at 10, 5 L on V, 8 on U, to get the right curve for 
the side seam. 

Measure the waist and make the distance at V to correspond with it. Using I as 
pivot sweep from 8 for the bottom of the front. 

Add one-half inch button-stand, and 1 inch on the side the buttons are sewed on. 
Buttons should be 1 inch apart. 

The Jersey is finished with standing collar. 

This pattern is intended only for goods which are elastic — like stockinet or tweed. 

The seams in the dart and at side should be stretched somewhat in pressing, thus 
allowing them to fit closer to the form. 



FIG. 19. GIRL'S SACK. 



This is a sack for a young girl of size 31 breast, close-filting. 
The figure illustrates a very jaunty and comfortable jacket. 

For the Fall Season it should be made of heavy ribbed cloaking, of 
a dark shade of grey, and an extra neat finish is obtained by binding it 
with a braid of a darker shade, and buttons to match the braid. 

It has eight buttons in front, is cut single-breasted, with a very 
small turn-over lapel, which allows it to be buttoned up close to the 
neck. 

A side edge is imitated on the back by braid, and three buttons put 
on it. 

The full-size pattern may be cut by following the Figure, as repre- 
sented, using inches for every number marked out. 
^00 In order that this may be readily understood we will go over this 

manner of doing it again, so that our readers who desire to take them off 
may not make any mistakes. 

First draw a line on the edge of paper, and draw out the back first, by fixing a point 
at the top. 

O is the starting point. From O go down in inches as indicated by the points 
marked f, 2f, 5f, 13, 20 and 34. 

Draw lines across from these points and apply the numbers on the Figure to these 




GIRLS SACK. 



35 



lines. When all these points are fixed connect the points by lines, which will form the 
outlines of the back. 

For the side-body use the same process and you will have the full size. It can be 
made double-breasted by adding 1 J, inch in front of the breast all the way down. 




86 



l'.RAIDED IACKET. 




DOUBI.E-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET. 



37 




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38 BRAIDED JACKET DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET — LADY's JACKET. 

FIG. 20. BRAIDED JACKET. 

This Figure represents a fashionable style of close-fitting jackets for Spring wear. 
They are made single-breasted, having the buttons close together, and have the ap- 
pearance of a Jersey. The same may be made double-breasted by the addition of 2 inches 
to the front. In trimming they may be plain, with nothing but small flat lasting, or a 
round crochet button. Braid in military style may be used, or a simple binding. 

The Figure is drawn from a pattern of a 3(3 breast, 25 waist ; the length may be regu- 
lated to taste. In drafting this pattern use inches for all the figures on the draft. 

FIG. 21. DOUBLE-BREASTED CUT-AWAY JACKET. 

This gives an elegant and very stylish jacket. The front is double-breasted towards 
the top with a broad, sharp lap, while at the waist only one button is used. 

In order to enlarge the draft to full size, which is a 36 inch breast-measure, use inches 
for all the figures on the draft. 

The jacket itself is finished at the neck with a collar, which is put on to the cape. 
The front, at the neck, is held together by an agraffe ornament. This garment, as it 
should appear, may be seen by the illustration. 

FIG. 22. LADY'S JACKET. 

These drafts illustrate a new style of lady's jacket, which will be acceptable to many 
for street wear. The style and general effect at once denote the character of the garment. 
The jacket is well adapted for outdoor wear. It is made with a moderate addition 
for double-breasted added on to the fore-part, and the button holes are worked in close 
together, as the buttons now used are so very small ; therefore, on this jacket, they are 
placed only one inch apart. 

The waist is medium length, and the skirt can be made to suit the height of the lady. 
A lap-over is made at the centre of the back skirt, finished off with small buttons put close 
together. 

The pockets may be put in at the side like a coat pocket, or only a flap put on, 
leaving the top edge unfastened, which forms the opening. In the latter case it can be 
ornamented with buttons. Pockets, however, are only put in when it is cut longer than 
Figure. 

The sleeves are narrow, finished by a row of buttons, and can be regulated in width 
by the measure of the arm. This is very essential, as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve 
as close as possible. 

The darts are cut down to the bottom, which is more preferable to running them to a 
point, as a seam looks better which runs continuously to the bottom. Cutting the dart so 
that it reaches only to the hip, will, unless carefully made, rise up in a puff at its lower end. 
It must always be borne in mind that the spring must be allowed to rise at the side-seam. 



lady's jacket. 



39 




The sudden rise of a lady's hip, and the marked 
difference between the size of the waist and of the 
body but a few inches below, make it extremely 
difficult to obtain the necessary amount of freedom 

for the prominence of the 
figure at this part of the 
body. 

The bottom edge of this 
jacket should be edged on 
the inside by a facing of 
silk, which is held on tight 
so that the edge may cling 
close to the dress-skirt. 

The collar is cut like a 
coat-collar and the lapel 
rolls short. A narrow bind- 
ing one-half inch wide is 

o 

put on the edge on all 



goods with a close and firm tex- 
ture, while on heavy, loose ma- 
terial, the stitching looks more 
appropriate. 

The button-holes run down to 
the bottom of the skirt. This form 
of jacket makes up well in fine 
diagonal or brocaded velvet. 

For heavy winter wear, rough 
suiting will make very stylish gar- 
ments. 

The lower edge of this jacket 
may be drawn straight across in- 
stead of curving up over the hips 
as on the Figure, and then it is 
equally as well adapted to be worn 
with any dress, as in the shape we 
illustrate. 




40 



SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK. 



FIG. 23. SINGLE-BREASTED LONG SACK. 

Figure 23 represents a long, close-fitting, single-breasted sack, consisting of back, side- 
body, front and sleeve. They are all drawn by measuring the lines, and placing the 
number of inches on each line as designated by the numbers shown on the Figure. 
Thus, for the back draw a straight line from O, then apply each measure as shown, and 
draw the lines across at rigfht ang-les with the line O. When these figures are all located, 
finish by drawing the outlines. 

Draw the straight line O down to the desired length for the side-body; at "28.V apply 
the figures on the lines — when these are all fixed curve the outlines. 

F"or the front, draw the straight line down from O, and mark the number of irches for 
both length and width ; when these are all fixed finish the outlines. 

The sleeve is drawn from O down to the required length, applying the number of 
inches for length as well as width, as shown ; after these have all been found, and the 
line drawn at right angles with the line O, draw the outlines. After the upper part of 




//$ 6y 



JACKET OR CLOAK. 41 



the sleeve has been drawn cut it out ; then locate the points for the under-sleeve, and lay 
the back of upper-sleeve against the points of the back part of the under-sleeve, and draw 
it like the back of upper-sleeve ; fix the points in front, and lay the upper-sleeve on and 
draw for the front of sleeve, then finish for top, as shown. 

FIG. 24. JACKET OR CLOAK— FROM A WAIST PATTERN. 

The method which is explained below is one of the most handy, as well as the easiest, 
that can be used, and will invariably produce good results. It is evident, in the first place, 
that the original pattern must have the essential qualities of fit and good lines, otherwise it 
would be of little value as a base or guide to produce another garment. In order to get 
such a waist pattern one must be able to design it, or have it on hand ; in the latter case 
we are prepared to furnish these patterns when ordered. 

THE back: 

In drafting a jacket pattern, first draw a line (like O-G) on the edge of your paper. 
Lay the back against the line at O and within 1 \ inch of the line at the waist, then 
trace along the centre seam from O to 5. Now move it one-fourth inch away, this is for 
seam ; then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from 1 to 2 and from 2 to 3. 

Along the arm-hole, from 3 to 4, trace close to the pattern. Measure next the length 
wanted from O to 5 and 9 and draw a line over to 10. From 5 to 9 draw a straight line, 
and then curve outside of this, at point 8, about one-half inch, as shown on Figure. 

Make the width of waist any size desired, say 3 inches, which establishes point 7, and 
from this point draw a line down to 10. This line should be no further away from the first 
line at 10 than at 7, or the distance from the line 9 to 10 should be the same as at waist, 
from H to 7. Now, starting at 4, slightly curve to 7 and go one-half inch outside of 
straight line to 10. 

THE SIDE-BODY. 

In this case, as on the back, the first thing we do is to draw a straight line from 
O to 10. Now lay the side-body against it, at O, and swing it away from the line at the 
waist 1] inch. Trace along the pattern from O to 1\. Then move the pattern one-fourth 
inch away from the last line, which would leave from 1 to 3 just one-fourth inch for 
for the seam. From 5 to 6 go in one-half the distance allowed over and above the allow- 
ance on the back, as from 6 to 7. Now curve the side-body from 2 to 5, keeping as nearly 
as possible the same shape as the original. Then from 5 draw a line down parallel with 
the first line which runs from O to 10. Now apply the back from 2 to 9 and regulate the 
length, which is point 9 ; then from 5 curve one-half inch outside of straight line at 8 to 9. 
At 9, square across to 10, and also draw a straight line from 1{ to 10, and begin to curve 
from 3, past 7, to 10. This curve should be more round near hip, or begin to curve closer 
to the waist. The curves on the back and on the side seam, from 5 to 8, may be gradual, 
as it thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than it actually is. 



4-2 



[ACKET OR CLOAK. 



THE FRONT. 

First draw the straight line like O-B. Lay the fore-part of the pattern against this 
line, touching at the centre of the breast, B, and trace along it at the front from 1 to the 
bottom at 3. Next move the pattern back one-half inch to B. Trace along the arm-hole 
without any allowances, but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch, also a trifle at 
neck. On the side-seam, from 15 to 20, add one-fourth inch; then lay the finished side- 
body on top of the front, touching point 15, and at the waist at 20, and finish the balance 




WALKING COAT. 



43 



from 20 to 22 by the side-body. Now from the top of the shoulder-point, by the bottom, 
point 22, sweep the bottom to the front at B. From 3 to B draw a straight line, and 
for a double-breasted jacket, as the Figure given, add on to the front, at B, 3 inches, at waist 
2^ inches, at the bottom 3 inches, and shape it as shown. At the bottom, after it has been 
curved by a sweep, straighten it one-half inch above the sweep in the centre. Instead of 
two darts at the back only one is used, as shown, and this one can be increased one-hall 
inch, and a cut is also taken out under the arm from 16 to 17. 

It is evident that two darts can be put in as well as 
one, or when the same is intended for plush goods the 
darts can be left out altogether without altering the bal- 
ance in any manner. 

To produce a collar for this jacket draw a line from 
C, where it is intended to roll, to E, which is one-half inch 
from curved line of neck ; then drop down from this line 
at 13 to 11 one inch and curve the break, as shown from 
11 to E. From 11 to 12 is ^ inch ; curve this also to neck- 
line at F, and thence along the neck to the front. From 
11 to 13 make the part of collar which is to turn over 1^- 
to 2 inches wide, and shape to the front at G. 

Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already 
explained. 

FIGS. 25 AND 26. WALKING COAT. 

By using a sack pattern, cut to the measure, a walking- 
coat can be cut in the most ready manner. 

The back is the same as a sack-jacket. We only 
measure from the top down to the length of open skirt A. 
From here add the lap for pleats ; single pleats require 
only 1^ inch; box pleats, according to size, 2 to 4 inches. 

The side-body is cut off at a length to correspond to 2 
on back, plus one-half inch, and curved up some towards 
side seam. 

The front is made as long as the side-body, and the 
bottom swept from the shoulder-point. When cut it will 
leave the skirt in pieces as 1, 2, 3 and 4. 

Now take these pieces and lay them down, closing at 
hip, so that the opening will be no more at bottom than at 
top; they lay close together at 12, 13 and 14. 

Now draw along the skirt at back from 4 to 15. From 
4 draw towards 5, raise one-half inch above the pattern to 
10, curving pattern at front. 




44 



WALKING-COAT. 



Put in a dart at 7. From 11 to 16 trace alone the front, and also alone the bottom. 
Add the pleat behind. 

The side-body in this Figure is laid in a closing position at side, point 2, to show that 
the seam must have a continuous curve from 1 and 2 to the front. 

The distance from 1 and 2 to 3, and from there to the front, is noted, and the skirt 

from 4 to 5-7 and 11 should be just the same 
with 1 inch more added, which is pressed in be- 
fore the skirt is seamed on to the fore-part. It 
will be noticed that in laying the pieces of the 
of the skirt together they close at 14, 12 and 
13, but at the top and bottom they are sep- 
arated, equal distances, the cut at 7 reduces 
one opening, and 1 inch fullness equalizes 
the amount the fullness is greater at 9 and 
forward. The addition for single and double- 
breasted is made by adding on 
in front of the fore-part and also 
on to the skirt : for a single- 
breasted 1 inch is enough, but 
for a double-breasted from 2 to 
3 inches is required. 




^^ 



DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET. 



45 



FIG. 27. DOUBLE-BREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET. 

Commence this by drafting on the same principle as all drafts — by the Proportionate 
System — by drawing line from O to F. From O go down to 11 three-fourths of an inch, 




and to 10 2 inches; from 11 to 10 curve the top of the back, and measure from the top of 
the back, at 11, to C, the length of waist 15 inches, to D 18 inches and to F the full length, 
32 inches ; at C, O and F draw right angle lines across. From C to the back is 1^ inch ; 
Draw a line from 11 to l. 1 ,, and one from 1 .V to F; make the width of back from 14 to 



4G DOUBI.E-ISREASTED NEWMARKET JACKET. 



2 inches wide. From O to B is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches in a 36 inch 
breast, and A is midway between these two points ; draw lines over from A and B. From 
B to G is one-third of breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches; from G to H is one-fourth of 
breast, or 4{, inches. From Y to J is one-half of breast, 18 inches; draw lines up from G, 
H and J, also down from J to N. 

Where line A crosses line G, at M, draw another line from M to 10 ; raise one-half 
inch above M to V, and draw a curved line from 10 to V. 

Commence to curve the arm-hole from V to M and H, dropping one-fourth inch below 
breast-line at 15. 

In the centre, between M and G, begin to draw the back to 2 at waist, and from there, 
with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance from F to Z will be about 
equal to that from C to 2. 

Go in from 2 to 3 one inch and shape the side-body from line under the arm to 3 and 
S, where it touches the back; make the side-body any width desired, say 2 inches to 14, 
the same from 3 to 4, curve the seam under the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to 
give it ease over the hips; also draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4 
and 20. From S curve up to 21, which latter point is 1 J, inch above the line S-1S. Point 
20 is on the same level as 21, the line runs straight across to the front seam which runs 
down from 5. The piece under the arm is 1-| inch wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches 
from 4 to 5 ; this should be shaped somewhat like draft. 

From L to I is one-sixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the same down from L to T. 
Curve the neck ; from I to A draw a straight line, and place the length of shoulder from 
10 to V on the front from I to U ; shape the front of shoulder by dropping below line at 
U one-half inch, and raise slightly above it at 12. 

Finish drawing the arm-hole from U to H, going out beyond the line H at 13 about 
one half inch. 

Draw from T, at the front, outside of J one-half inch, thence to K at waist, going 
inside of front line one-fourth inch at K and N to point P at bottom. 

In the middle, between J and H, locate a point for the dart, and in the centre, between 
this and H, fix another point for the back dart. From K to 1-?,, across the waist, measure 
the distance, taking out 1 inch between 2 and 3, which will be 16 inches; deduct the 
size of waist, 12 inches, from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches, is to be taken out in 
darts; therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each. From K to 9 is 2 inches; from 9 to 8 
is one dart ; from 8 to 7, between the darts, is three-fourths inch ; from 7 to 6 is another 
dart of 2 inches. About 2^ inches below the waist-line begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 
and 6, nearly straight down from waist-line. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N ; 
at N it is one-half inch below straight line. 

Make the lapel straight on its inside edge, and 2 inches at waist, and 3 inches at 
centre of breast, in width, and shape like Figure. 

To draw the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body, and draw a 
line to R, then curve it about one-half inch more over the hips. Regulate the length by 
the back. From S draw the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body 



TRAVELING ULSTER. 



47 



at 21, thence to N ; from N forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down ; also 
put in two cuts on the hip, of one-half inch each, and the skirt will be right to fit the body. 
Should it, on measuring, be a little too wide, take the extra width off in front; whatever 
overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts. 

A flap can be put on over the hips. An ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket. 




FIG. 28. TRAVELING ULSTER. 

A Spring and Fall garment for traveling or outdoor wear is represented by this 
Figure and is a reduced copy of the pattern of a 38 size breast, and can be readily enlarged 
by simply using inches for the numbers marked upon it. The draft is a close-fitting 
traveling paletot, double-breasted, and buttons down to the bottom, and has a collar which 



48 



TRAVELING ULSTER. 



turns over, as represented by Fig. 5. This collar should be well stretched with the hot 
iron, at the lower edge, before it is sewed on, in order that it may cling around the neck 
nicely. This way of making and sewing on a collar is far superior to the usual custom of 
dressmakers, and is always adopted by tailors in making jackets or other ladies' garments. 

The back has at its centre, below the waist, a lap, which can be put in a box-pleat or 
lapped over like a coat, and at the side it has a simple pleat. 

The front has a large dart cut in one piece — that is, like a sack coat, having the skirt 
attached to the body — but the side-body is sewed in as cut, in a separate piece. Over 
the hips pockets are put in covered with liberal flaps. 

For use as a traveling garment it will be well to make it out of waterproof cloth, but 
it makes a handsome street paletot when made out of diagonal cloth or melton. 



73 




Fig. 29. 7k 




NEWMARKET. 



49 



FIGS. 29 AND 30. NEWMARKET. 

This style of Newmarket has only one dart. Proceed to make a full size draft in 
accordance with the directions. First draw a straight line 0, and mark off the number 
of inches down from O, as given on the Figure ; at these points draw lines across, and on 
these lines mark the number of inches as given, in like manner proceed to draw each 
part of the garment. 




P i 2fr 





50 



RIDING-HAUIT. 



•.IN 





RIDING-HABIT. 



51 



FIG. 31. RIDING-HABIT. 

The demand and orders for these garments have, so far, been considerable in the 
leading houses, and a few hints are always seasonable, not only to those who make them 
for the highest fashionables, but especially to those who are located in smaller towns and 
who are not often called upon to make this style of garment. There are now many ladies 
who have a horse at their disposal, and whose chief enjoyment is in equestrian exercise, 
and it is quite necessary, not only tor the tailor but the dressmaker, to know how a riding- 
habit should be cut and made. At one time it was thought impossible for anyone but 
a tailor to make a stylish riding-habit, but now many ladies have them made by their 
dressmakers. 

The first thing necessary is a good measure of the form, by which a correct pattern 

must be cut, as a well-setting, 
comfortable riding-habit cannot 
be made without it. 

The jacket has a few pecu- 
iarities : 

There should be no seam 
down the middle of the back ; 
the front, side-body and back 
are cut one inch below the 
natural waist. 

The skirt and back form a 
pleat like the skirt-pleat of a 
coat. 

The buttons should be small 
and round. The sleeves are 
tightly buttoned up at wrist. 

The inside of jacket should 
be lined with silk, carefully 
wadded and stitched in close 
rows. It should have a belt in- 
side, stitched to each <eam at 
waist, which is to close it tight 
to the form. 

The Figures we give show to 
advantage some of these 
peculiarities. The draft 
is a good model of such 
a habit, and is univer- 
sally adopted, being both 
suitable and elegant. It 
"looks quite English" 




52 



CIRCULAR. 




and very pretty. A plain standing collar of 
white linen should be worn with it and a gentle- 
man's cravat of black silk, or if the jacket is 
made with the lapels turning down a flat scarf 
is more appropriate. 

We add to this an article published in 
" Munster's Gazette of Fashion " on riding- 
habits. This will enable our readers to be 
more fully posted, not only on what is worn 
here but what is in keeping with London styles: 
" We have devoted one of the plates issued with the 
current number of our publication to the representation 
of the newest and most fashionable style of a lady's riding- 
habit in wear. The lengthening of the waist, which we 

reported last year, has been maintained, although it has not been increased; and the jacket-skirt is about the same 
in length. It is fastened up to the throat by buttons and holes, and with a small stand-collar rounded off at the 
front. The jacket-skirt is cut in one piece instead of two, as heretofore, and at front runs off at an angle from 
the bottom of the front edge of the fore-part, and is lined with cloth, or interlined with some article of substance, 
to give it a firmness. The edges of the back skirts terminate in a point at the bottom. A small square tab, with 
two holes in it, is sewn across under the bottom of the back, and is fastened on to two buttons sewn on the top 
of the back part of train. The edges are usually trimmed with a narrow silk braid, sewn on flat, and the body and 
the sleeves lined with light colored silk. Ball buttons and fancy silk buttons are generally used. Five or six 
buttons are sewn on at the hind-arm; the two lower holes only are worked open. 

Some ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their riding-habits, and eschewing all fictitious aids by way 
of adornment to the bodies have made them perfectly plain, with the edges turned in and stitched, and smoked 
pearl or vegetable ivory shank buttons. 

Veils are no longer considered correct, no doubt because they may be considered too effeminate in character 
and out of place with the " billy-cock " hat. 

The train, as now worn, is only cut a few inches longer than the walking length. It is turned up at the 
bottom, with a narrow hem only, and the V's taken out at the seams are covered with ribbon. 

Colored habits are being worn in rich shades of brown, olive and green — not too light. Blue and black are 
also worn. The small diagonal elastic coating and Venetian cloth are preferred on account of their making up so 
satisfactorily. Dress meltons and tweeds are also worn, but the makes are not so appropriate. 

One inevitable consequence of short and scanty trains is the necessity for every lady, taking equestrian 
exercise, to wear riding trousers. They are usually made of the same cloth as the habit, with a fly-front open to 
leg-seam, or with a long opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the centre, and a narrow strap 
at bottom." 

In order to produce Figure 31 use inches for all numbers on the draft. But in draft- 
ing it to measure use the same principle as laid down for waists, and lengthen the skirt as 
on Fio-ure 7 and draw the skirt like that on last Figure. 



FIG. 32. CIRCULAR. 

Draw lines O-S and O-J. From O to J is one-fourth of breast. From O to H is 
one-third of breast. Lay the pattern of the back against H and 1 .V inch inside of line at 
the waist. Lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near F and 



CIRCULAR. 



53 



touching front-line at J. Draw along the top of the back from H to 1, and add to the 
pattern at 1, for seams, one-half inch. Draw from 1 to F and from 2, on the front shoulder, 
to F. From J, along the front of the body-pattern, draw a straight line to 4. Now from 
1 and 2 draw a line and make a point in the centre at 3. Apply the length from H to 5 




for full length of what the garment should be, and using point 3 as a pivot sweep from 
5 to the front for the lower or bottom edge ; then square the bottom at 5, and in front 
at 4, as shown in the Figure. 

If a seam is wanted draw a line through the centre from F and take out about 
3 inches at bottom, starting from 6 to 7 and 6 to 8. 

For a close back, curve from H along the back to 1+ and thence to 5 at bottom. 



54 



RUSSIAN CIRCULAR. 



FIGS. 33 AND 34. RUSSIAN CIRCULAR. 



2'/2 O 




1 



IZ 



l> 



In making a pattern of this garment we first draw a line on the edge of paper and 
make a point on the right end, as O. From O down place three-fourths of an inch. From 
O to I is one-half of breast measure, or 9 inches, for a 36 size. Between O and I is 
J. H and I are at right angles with first back-line. From I over on the line place one- 
third of breast, equal to 6 inches, and add 1 inch, making in all 
7 inches, and draw a line up to 5. Next, from O on top line 
4^ place 2 or 2- 1 - inches and curve from \ to 2-|-. 

Measure down from \ to D, the length of waist, say 15 inches, 
J and the whole length to R. Go in from straight line at D 1 1 inch 
and curve the right back-seam from \ to 1 .V and R. 

Make the back, at waist, 4 inches wide and curve from 
5 through waist at 11 to 12 at bottom. The run of this line 
should be nearly straight past V and curving at 11, and should 
also be wider at bottom, about 1 inch more than from D to 11. 
From 2Jj- draw a line raising it one-half inch at 5. 

For the front (Figure 34) draw a straight line from O to J. 
From O down to a is one-eighth of breast, equal to 2J- inches. 
From O to B is one-sixth of breast, or 3 inches. From O to K is 
one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches. Square lines across at all these 
points. From O to A, the neck, is one-sixth of breast. 

Lay the back on to the point A and extreme shoulder resting 
on the line at C. Now draw along the back shoulder while it is 
in this position, and also curve from C to 12, which should only 
be 4 inches below C. 

From K go out to H one-quarter of the breast, less 1 inch, 
equal to 8 inches. Having established this we can curve the 
shoulder easier, as seen by dotted lines. Measure from K over 
on the line one-half of breast, equal to 18 inches, and one-third of 
breast, or 6 inches, added. 

Now lay the back-line against this last point in such a way 
that point 5 of the back will rest on line A-13, and so that it will 
be placed as seen in Figure 35. Then carefully measure to see if 
the distance from K-H and to the back-line will be exactly one- 
half and one-third of breast, or 27 inches. Then curve from 12 to 
13 to 14 down the back and reducing it at the bottom about 
4 inches from the position as it would be when the back is laid 
as stated. 

Now by the length of the back regulate that of the front, and 

then sweep by the point of shoulder A from 10 to J. This latter 

/2 71 point, and part of this round, as produced by the sweep, should 



Fig. 33. 



RUSSIAN CIRCULAR. 



55 



be shortened about 1 inch. Curve the neck from A to B, and add 1 inch all alono- the 
front for a turn-in hem. 

From where the back lies against the wing, at O, draw the curve to 13 on the top of 
sleeve-head. 

The upper part of the sleevediead should be gathered-in considerable, and at O a 
notch should be placed to facilitate the sewing in, for notch should be sewn on notch. (See 
Figure 35.) 

'/G 




56 



CLOSED CIRCULAR. 



FIG. 35. CLOSED CIRCULAR. 

After this has been drawn the same as the Russian circular, lay it against the front 
and cut without a seam from O down to the bottom. For this shape, after the shoulders 
are seamed up, gather in the round of sleeve from O forward. The same can be cut like 
the circular; also cut off in front from top, past V, to the bottom, in a straight line down 
from B. This makes a wrap with a back wing and a front. When cut in this manner an 
opening can be left for the hands to go through, as shown on the Figure, below E. 

A short cape, such as have been worn for some time in Europe, and are just making 
their appearance here, is cut like this, reaching, however, only to the waist. This same 




DOLMAN. 



57 



wrap can be cut from a clolman pattern by laying the sleeve 
of a dolman on to front so that the front notches come 
together and the two patterns close together some distance 
above, or till within 4 or 5 inches of the top of the shoulder, 
then draw along sleeve-top past the back of the sleeve. 

If a line is drawn through the shoulder-point, next to 
the sleeve, at right angles with the front, and the back ^<f?4\ 
shoulder-point laid on this line and closing against the Vrf }.)■., 
sleeve at blade, it will represent exactly this circular cape, vT"^ 
and will be one of the easiest ways to make it. The Figure V* ^)\ 
shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted line 
from E forward, as it appears when lying in position. 

These several wraps can be made of silk, and fur- 
lined, or they may be of brocade, velvet, or seal, and are 
handsome in shape and outline when correctly cut. As 
they are so different from the old circular they will be much 

sought after, because of the 
newness of design and that 
the sleeve can be raised on 
the shoulder to harmonize 
with the increased preva- 
lence of gathered and high 
style of sleeve-heads. 












FIGS. 36, 37, 38, 39, 40. DOLMAN. 

Draw a line O-H ; from O, down, mark three-fourths 
of an inch. From O draw a short line over to 3, and 
make it 2-^ inches. From O down to B is one-fourth of 
breast, equal to 9 inches on a 36 breast. Point F is in 
the centre, between O and B ; from f to D is the length 
of the waist, and to H the full length of garment. Draw 
lines across at F, B and D. Between F and B, directly in 
the centre, make a mark C, and draw a line across. 

Go in at the waist 13, inch from line at D ; draw line 
from | to 1-J- for the centre of back, and curve below D to 
H. From 1^, at waist, measure in to 4 3^ inches to 4 
inches, 

On line C make the width of back one-third of breast 
and one inch and draw a line up. 

On the top of shoulder draw a line from 3 to 14, and 
raise it one-half inch above 14 ; commencing there, exactly 



58 



DOLMAN. 



at the crossing of the lines, begin to curve past 16 and 4 to 1 at bottom. Having 
finished the back, first make a line across in the middle, between |- and F, from E over ; 
next lay a sleeve pattern, of regular size, on 15 as when sewn in the arm-hole; holding it 
at 15, swing it down till the upper part of the sleeve-head rests about one-half inch 
below line E, at 13, and when in this position draw along the round of the sleeve, which 
will give exactly the round as shown on the Figure from 15, past 13, to 2. 




DOLMAN. 



59 



Next, placing the width over from B on the back line, measure to 10, 24 inches, and 
curve the sleeve from 2 to 10, running below the line 2 inches. Point G is about 12 inches 
below the waist, and from this place 1 inch more than one-quarter of the hips to 8, and 
draw from 6, which is one-quarter of hip from D, a line through 8 to 9 ; then finish the 
curve at bottom, and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape. The front 
is constructed by drawing a line from O down the front edge or centre of front. 




From O over to shoulder point is one-sixth breast, the same down to 3 ; also go down 
one-eighth breast and draw a line across ; curve the neck from \ to 3, and apply the same 
width of shoulder as the back on the front, \ to 10 From O down is one-half breast to E, 
there draw a line over to 8 and make last point, from E, one-fourth breast less 1 inch. 



60 



DOLMAN. 



Measure the distance on the back, from B to H, and place it from E to P, then sweep 
the bottom of the front by the shoulder-point, which gives line P to K. Make the distance 
over from H to J one-quarter of the hips, and 1 to 1 i- inch more; draw a line from 
K through J to L. Next measure the back from 6 to '.» and place the same from K up 
to L ; curve arm-hole from 10 through 8 to L. Add 3 inches for a lap of double-breasted 
style ; mark and space the buttons. 

The under-sleeve is cut like the upper part from 2 to 10 and 11, like the outside curve. 
The inside curve from 2 to 7 is short, just as much as is needed to sew in the front — to 
find how much this should be we make a notch opposite 14 and one at 2, which is about 
10 inches from 14. This measure, less 1 inch, is marked from 10 to 16, and at that 
point make another notch. What is left from 16 to L must be placed from 2 to 7, and this 
curve should be like curve on front. Lastly, draw a line from 7 to the star, which finishes 
the whole garment. 

In order to draft a dolman pattern which will fit well and hang with a good balance 
the same manner of drafting as that which produces a good shaped sack should be used, 
then the balance and hang of the garment will be equally as good as in a tight-fitting 
sack, and a dolman can then be cut as close as a sack, if so desired. 

The manner of drafting the back, side-body and front, are, in fact, just like a sack, the 
main difference being in the shape of the sleeve. The sleeve, even in the upper part, 
_ must be like an ordinary coat-sleeve, while the lower part 

may be any of the various shapes in fashion. 

In drafting make a line to start on from O to F 
(Figure 37) ; from O down is three-fourths inch, and from 
O over to top line is 2]- inches to 1. From O to B is one- 
fourth of breast, 9 inches of a 36 size. Point D is in the 
middle, between O and B, and point 6 is in the middle, be- 
tween O and D. From ;>, which is the top of the back, 
measure down to C 15 inches, and to F 40 inches, the full 
length. Point E is 6 inches, or one-third of breast, below 
the waist-line at C. At all these points draw lines across. 
From B to H is one-third and 1 inch, equal, on 36 breast, 
to 7 inches; draw a line up to 1 ; in the middle, between I, 
the point where the two lines cross and H, mark point K. 
At the waist-line go in from straight line C to 3 one and 
one-half inches, then draw line down from f to 3 and from 
3 to F. Also draw a straight line at right angles with 
waist-line from 3 to 6 at bottom. 

Make the width at waist, from 3 to 4, about 3 inches, 
and draw also a line down to 7. Now curve back-seam, as 
shown, and whatever amount there is from 6 to F place 
from 7 to 8, and curve from 4 past 5 to 8. 

Draw a line from I to 1, raise above I to J three-fourths 



JV r ' / > .. *~ 




DOLMAN. 



61 



inch, and curve the shoulder. Starting from J up upright line, curve back seam to 
4 and 8; also mark a dim line from J past I, K to G, just like in a sack back — the dotted 
line shows that. Point G is one-fourth of breast, or 9 inches, from B. 

Notice that the curve on the back, from C to 3, is a trifle outside of the straight line, 
and that below 3 it runs a shade inside to give an appearance of a long waist, and below 
E it curves outside again to F. 




The inside seam from J past breast-line should be very nearly straight, and begin to 
curve only near the waist, and from 5 down it must have the same curve as outside line 
below point E to F. 

Now have a sleeve cut for a 36 size and lay this on to K, as shown, so that the sleeve- 
head rests against the line from K to I ; then in the centre, between I and K, find point 2 
and stick a pin. 

Now turn to Figure 38: In the middle, between line A and D, draw line E ; keeping 
it pinned at 2, move the lower part of the sleeve towards the back till the top of the sleeve- 



62 



DOLMAN. 



head just touches line E at 10. While it lays thus draw 
along the top from 2 to 10 and 9, also down from 9, in front of 
sleeve pattern, to line B. This gives the outline of the 
sleeve, but we modify it by drawing a corrected line from 
10, inside of point 9 of sleeve, down to 12. 

Fieure 39 eives the balance of the sleeve. First draw 
a line in the centre, between lines B and C, which places 
line D. 

Then take out the pin which was placed in the sleeve at 
point 2, and without moving the sleeve stick a pin at point U ; 
this point is found two-thirds of the width of the sleeve for- 
ward. When this is done take hold of the sleeve at its lower 
point and move it upwards, till point T of sleeve rests on 
line D at N, and then curve from 16 to N. To produce this 
curve just right take the distance from line B at 18 to line D 
at 17, and place the same from 17 to 19, and draw a straight 
line from 19 to 18, then curve line from 16, resting on line 
at 20, thence to N. From N curve form of sleeve to 21 
and 15, and to 13 for one style of sleeve, or from U to 21 
and 14 for another style. 

Go in from 4 to 5 three-quarters of an inch ; curve from 
10, past 2, touching the back, and along it past line B, and 
thence separate from the back to 5 and 14 — this last line must 
touch at point 13 on the straight line which was drawn down from point 4 on Fig. 37 and 
is marked 5 on the same. 




---i-LLLU-Ii-l-"- L " 



THE FRONT— FIG. 40. 

Lay the back down on paper and extend all the lines across, line A, B, C, D and 
bottom line. Measure from Z to A on line B. one-half of breast, or 18 inches; from B to 
H is one-third of breast and 1 inch; H to P is one-fourth of breast, equal to 4.', inches. 
Draw a line up at P, and one up and down at A. Mark line A also. From K to L is 
one-sixth of breast, equal to 3 inches, and K to 7 is the same, 3 inches; curve neck. 

Draw a line from L to D and place the width of the top of shoulder on the back from 
L to 8, and curve from 8 upwards above the line one-fourth inch ; draw from 8 down in 
front of line P to 9. This will be three-fourths inch in front of line P. Let this curve of 
the arm-hole extend below line B, or nearly down to midway between lines B and C, and 
curve to 6. From 6 draw down to 5, which is three-fourths inch from 4 to 15 and 17 ; at 
the last point it should be about 1 \ inch over the straight line drawn down from 4 on the 
back. 

From point G, which, as before stated, is one-fourth of the breast-measure, 9 inches 
from B, draw a straight line down. Curve from G to 12, 13 and 18 ; the last point is 2 inches 
from T ; also curve from G to 12, 14 and 19. Point 19 is the same distance from T as 18. 



DOLMAN. 



(■,:>, 



Draw bottom line from 19 to 30 at front, where curve three-fourths inch below 
the line. Add in front over F line, for double-breasted 3 inches, and for single- 
breasted 1^ inches. 

Now we have only to show how the under-sleeve is produced. This is done by 
measuring first the sleeve-head from O, where point J of the back is sewn on, to 16, which 




point is in middle, between 9 and 18. This will measure 1<H inches; as we put in 1 inch 
of fullness in the sleeve-head it leaves us only H inches, which is measured down the 
front from 8 to 10 and notched. Lay sleeve notch, marked 16, on to notch on the fore- 
part 10, hold it there with a pin, move it till line on sleeve, marked C, will lay parallel with 



64 



DOLMAN. 



any of the lines, as C or B on fore-part. Then mark on the fore-part along the sleeve, 
from notch at 10 to N of sleeve, and from N to 21 ; the sleeve will now be marked on the 
fore-part line 10 to O, P and A, and will be cut the same shape as the arm-hole from 10 to 
A, and can be traced off on another sheet of paper. 

The principle as given in this article is suitable, and the only thing necessary, to pro- 
duce any style of dolman. The change necessary for the short or long pointed sleeve, or for 
any shape of arm-wing, does not alter the principle. Pleated backs, or very much fullness 
in the top of the sleeve, must be met by putting enough extra goods in to meet the amount 
required for pleats or fullness. 

When a regular pattern is cut addition is made where pleats are wanted. When 
more fullness is wanted in the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan is to cut the sleeve 
in two, from the highest part of the sleeve-head, and opened as far as required, about 
1 or 2 inches, and a little more round put on the top. 

The principle, as shown in this book, will produce for every style of garment a correct 
fit, and yet it may be urged upon all using it, that in order to produce new styles, or gar- 
ments of such styles that contain pleats or ornaments laid on the cloth, the reader's own 
judgment must necessarily help to carry him through. 

In conclusion, let me say — that any point or measuring that does not seem clear, by 
addressing me I will always be ready to enlighten to the best of my ability. 




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